Tenuta delle Terre Nere is located
in Sicily, on the northern slopes
of the Etna Volcano. The estate
is made up of roughly 20-21 hectares,
of which 15 are vineyards. Roughly 4.5
of these have been uprooted (in the
Calderara cru) and will be replanted by
2007, having let the soil "rest".
Two vineyards, for a total of
roughly 11-12 hectares are in the
Calderara Cru. 1.5 hectares of Calderara
is prephylloxera, the rest (which has
not been uprooted) is about 40-50 years
old. The trellessing is "en goblet" or
self standing, but in wide spacing: 2.2
x 1 meters. The elevation here is
between 650 and 700 meters above sea
level.
Two vineyards are in the Guardiola
Cru, for a total of 2.1 hectares. Both
are 60-90 years old, except for
replanted vines. 450 vines were
replanted in Guardiola in 2005.
Training is en goblet 1 x 1 meter tight
traditional spacing, steep and terraced,
which means the vineyards have to be
worked by hand. The elevation here is
800 to 900 meters above sea level.
Above 1,000 meters, perfect ripening
is uncertain for red grapes, but still
vineyards are planted at these altitudes.
In any case, these are the highest
altitude red grape vineyards in the "old
world"!
Two vineyards are in the "Feudo
di Mezzo" cru, for a total of 1.35
hectares. The vineyards are terraced,
but not as steeply as the Guardiola
vineyard. The vines are en goblet,
roughly 1 x 1 meter spacing. The soil
here is a blend of volcanic ash and
volcanic sand, quite unusual in this
area. The vines' average age is probably
around 60-80 years old.
The soils differ vastly from patch
to patch. 500,000 years of volcanic
eruptions have created endless soil
differentiations, many of which are
radical. In this area the soil is roughly
volcanic ash specked by black pumice
and much more solid volcanic rock as
well. Rocky is putting it mildly.
The weather variations in this area
are profound and generally defined by
exposure, "airyness", and altitude. But
there are also microclimatic curiosities,
such as the fact that Calderara lies
between two rainfall areas, from both
of which, for some reason, it is spared.
"Airyness", as they define it here,
which is a well exposed vineyard that
is not closed in by hills, is particularly
important because mildew and oidium
are rather rough here. In fact, due to
the fact that the harvest here is roughly
between mid and the end of October -
making it the latest harvest in Italy after
Aglianico (first week of November) -
the weather always breaks before the
harvest, endangering the grapes at their
most delicate stage. All in all, this is a
very difficult climate, in many ways
akin to Burgundy. And if - like me -
you grow grapes organically, or
biologically, if you prefer - i.e., using
only bordelaise mixture and organic
fertilization - mostly dung - it makes
it even harder.
Most important, the extraordinary
elevation yields dramatic temperature
excursions. This, in turn, makes the
wines of Etna extraordinarily fine and
elegant, devoid of the heat and overripe
sensations that overwhelmingly define
"southern" wines.
And, in fact, everyone who has
tasted the wines of Terre Nere,
particularly the 2004s, from the barrel
(as Elio Altare) says they find them
most akin to Burgundy or Barolo. And
indeed the Etna could easily be seen as
the Burgundy of the Mediterranean, as
I mention on the Italian strip label.
This is particularly obvious from
2004 on because from then on I’m
releasing wines produced from three
crus. The grapes are vinified and aged
separately. Vinification is simple,
classic, Burgundian: macerationfermentation
between 10-15 days,
malolactic and aging in oak - 25% new
- bottling after 18 months.
Moreover, the 2004 vintage marks
the real birth of Tenuta delle Terre Nere,
because for the first time the estate is
self sufficient, and the grapes produced
were vinified at the estate’s new cellars.
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